Some observations -

There a tensions in this city that rest just beneath its surface, errupting occassionally but in a somewhat frightening manner.

Two days ago -- as part of the administrative pilgrimage that I've been hopelessly sent on while I've been here -- I went to get a social security number, after finally having the right documents (several letters from my school) to make an application. I need the social security number to work here -- at least to work here legally and to get paid. Anyway, we were waiting in this lift lobby -- a small crowd of us, about 15, waiting to get into the lift that would bring us up to the offices. The security guard on duty (black) limits the number of people that get into the lift -- to six I think -- of course he does this in a rather callous manner, rather brusquely issuing instructions about how to queue up and stopping people from getting in the lift. Anway, this white guy just in front of me, tries to RUSH the lift. He actually propels his (rather rotund -- I feel miniscule here) body into the lift and tries to get it going. The security guard (equally large) WRESTLES him out of the lift, much to the horror of the people in the lift and much to my consternation (I'm next in line, remember ?) Then the insults begin:

White guy: "YOU FIT in the lift, you fatso. Why can't I get in? You're fatter than me."
Guard: "You fat asshole. There's a limit."
WG: "Yeah? What's the limit? You don't know do ya?"
Guard: "You fatasshole."
WG: "What is it you said? Could you repeat that?"
Guard: "You heard what I said ..."
WG: "No I didn't, cause I WASN'T paying attention to you, you fatso."
Guard: " You're an asshole"
WG: "You can't count can you? You can't count how many ..."
Guard: "You're on medication aren't you? I can tell ... you're on medication ..."


Then in the lift, this white guy picks on ANOTHER black guy. And they have a staring match right over my head. In the meanwhile, I'm desperately trying to avoid all eye contact.

Then again. Yesterday, at an outdoor concert, there was a Black Dance group whose dance incorporated some poetry. The poetry was very nice. Full of images of richness and opulence that harkened to an imagined Africa (eg "paths, made of mother of pearl" ). Anyway, some white guy (again) stood up and starting cursing the whole performance. Condemning it as black nationalism. The security people had to come in to diffuse the situation.

So far -- it's the white people who aren't behaving themselves.

My only encounter about MY ethnicity so far:

At the registrar's office ... a clerk (who isn't really helpful -- with an italian accent ...)
C: So waddaya STARdying?
Me: English.
C: ENGlish? That's reFRESHing you know, that's a nice change. I LIKE that. Cause you guys NORMally do the Phee-sics, the MatheMAaaatics, you know. ENGlish... that's gooooood.